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| Headstock thickness. http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2539 |
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| Author: | old man [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 12:59 am ] |
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Morning, all I've got another beginner question. What is the min/max finished headstock thickness that works with Schaller tuners? Ron |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 1:07 am ] |
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take your tuner in paw and start the bushing threads a full turn or so with the washer on. then measure the space between the underside of the bushing washer and the backside of the tuner body = max. screw it all the way in and measure again = min. if you are working from a plan it should give a view of the dimensions of the headstock including an overlay which should fit just about any tuner. if you do something different make sure you draw it out and add up your dimensions to be sure to stay within the range of your tuner. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 1:08 am ] |
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My finished headstock thickness is somewhere near 9/16" I think. You just need to be able to catch the threads and make a couple or three revs on the nut. |
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| Author: | old man [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 1:13 am ] |
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Well, DUH Thanks, gentlemen, seems I missed the forest for the trees. Ron |
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 2:23 am ] |
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One thing I learned using the classical headstock slotting jig from luthiertools.com is that the ideal thickness should be around 20mm. The first head I used this tool on was too thick and so the tuners were not spaced nicely along the side of the head. The tuners actually sit almost flush with the front of the headstock, but were offset about 4mm from the back. Does anybody know whether this jig is adjustable to allow wider tuners (ie, more ornate tuners), or will all tuners need to be flush against the front as opposed to centered on the side of the headstock? Sorry to highjack your thread Ron, but your question got me thinking whether the luthiertools jig is adjustable. John |
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| Author: | Sprockett [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 2:32 am ] |
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I shoot for about 9/16"s on my steel strings (usually just a hair over that) and about the same as John for classicals. I normally take the raw headstock to 1/2" and then add the lams... -Paul- |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 3:03 am ] |
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Are any of you guys tapering your headstock thicknesses, ala Benedetto? |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 3:25 am ] |
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Only by accident! |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 3:52 am ] |
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i've not seen an actual example of the jig, but in looking at the photos it seems that if the jig in position on the headstock rests on the guide plates a shim between the plats and the body of the jig would allow the holes to be drilled further from the headstock face. but if the clamping screws are in contact with the face of the headstock that doesn't appear to be an option. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 4:18 am ] |
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I used to taper my headstocks just because I thought it looked cool but it seems like you should then also provide a place for the washer that is parallel to the mounting point of the gear and since I didn't want to do that I quit tapering. I also shape the end of my headstock and the nut to headstock taper in a plane that is perpendicular to the fingerboard mandolin style. |
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| Author: | old man [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 2:26 pm ] |
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Hi, John My question was answered. Anyway, that really is what makes this forum so great. Tangents are a great way tie things together. Ron |
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